Shard's Guide to becoming a better player[INCOMPLETE]

[Resident Fascist]

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Note: I am no "Pro" at Deck-building. No deck is "perfect" and there will always be some flaw. Raging on here posting "THIS GUIDE SUCKS!!!" makes you look like a moron. Why does it suck? Please tell me so I can improve. THIS POST IS LONG. TL;DR? Don't bother.

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Golden Rule 1: How to get cards.

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Well, you have several options. You can obviously buy these:

Obviously, buying random sets isn't going to get you the cards you want. Look up the set lists on the yugioh wiki to see what cards are in the set. Buying boosters is mostly if you love the sense of achievement when you see that glimmering card you want. The next way is most obviously, Trading. Going to your locals weekly and seeing if people have the card you want for trade is a good idea. Next you have buying the cards. This is probably the easiest way, but depending on the card(s) it can be quite expensive. If you are in a hurry to prepare your deck, this is the best option. This is also the easiest way to get those out of print cards.

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Trading Mini-guide: How not to get ripped off.

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When trading, there can be some crafty morons who take pride in ripping others off. Once you have finished reading this, hopefully you won't ever get ripped off (Again). I value if a card is worth trading on 5 scales: Rarity, Price, Effect, Splashability and Usability.

 

Rarity: What rarity is the card you are trading for? Unless it was something like this:

X3

For

X2

 

It's not really worth trading for anything that lowers the rarity. Unless the card(s) are genuinely better than what you are trading, it's not worth downgrading a Secret Light End Dragon for 3 Black Whirlwinds.

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Price:

 

How valuable are the cards you are trading? While there are no official set prices, taking a look at what others have been selling the card for is a good idea. LIMITED EDITION cards, Minus the shonen jump Holo sets, are ussually not worth trading as you can buy a tin or a Retro Pack 1/2 for cheaper than the cards you are trading. As a general rule, do your card's value outwiegh the price of said promo cards? For example:

 

Ghost rare cards are ussually worth more than thier LIMITED EDITION counterparts. Some trades are just downright dodgy, and you should ALWAYS try to read up the effect/ATK/DEF and etc of the cards you are trading for before trading. This trade might look good, but when we take a look at it, you've been ripped off badly:

 

Secret rare Judgement dragon valued at around £150. 1st edition: £200.

 

OriginalSlifer The Sky Dragon Wide price radius.

 

Original Obelisk The Tormentor Very Wide Price radius.

 

OriginalThe Winged Dragon of Ra Very wide Price radius.

 

So you got 3 of the most saught after cards at a 1:3 Ratio. OOPS! You made a ghastly mistake. All 3 of these cards have a Limitation text:This card cannot be used in a duel. So, +£150 for the scammer. Those cards are most likely fake, as so many fakes of them are made.

 

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Effect: Does the card you are trading for have any specific effects? Most cards in the TCG now have some effect on the game when played. Rarely are vanillas even wanted by players, because of thier blantant lack of effect. Once again, use common sense. Let's take a look at one of the most famous examples.

 

Hero Barrier Vs Mirror Force

 

Both effects read as follows.

 

 

Hero Barrier:

If you control a face-up "Elemental Hero" monster, negate 1 attack from a monster your opponent controls.

Mirror Force:

Activate only when an opponent's monster declares an attack. Destroy all Attack Position monsters your opponent controls.

 

Now, newbies might think that the Hero Barrier card is GOOD for E-Heros. And that mirror force is limited.

 

Comparison in Card Advantage:

 

Hero Barrier:

 

- 1 The card itself.

 

So hero barrier is a -1, -2 if you count the E-hero. It also onlynegates the attack, if you can't destroy the monster by your next end phase it'll be there ready to attack you again. So a -1 for absolutely nothing.

 

Mirror Force:

 

-1 The card itself.

+1 For each monster on the opponent's side in Attack.

 

Mirror force has the capability of becoming a +4 if the opponent has 5 monsters in attack. This card destroys the monsters, making them unable for use unless brought back somehow, I know, you'd must be a idiot to not know this but I'd thought I'd add it. In most cases it'll be a +0 or a +1. What does having the advantage in the number of cards help you? Well, I'll go over that in the dueling section, but the more cards you have the more varied your turns can be and the opponent cannot just guess what you are going to do. Don't try to telegraph what you are doing next turn. Mirror force can be used in all decks as well. Hero Barrier is ONLY for E-hero decks. And please, Just run D.Prison? 3 D.Prisons and a Mirror Force will do fine.

 

Not all -1 cards are bad, just that ones that do hardly anything is not worth risking Card Advantage over. Unless you have a card that works in the graveyard. Don't waste your cards to activate weak effects. If the effect gains you a +1 or +0, it's worth it if your hand is dead or you want new cards from your deck. -1's are mostly traps that activate a effect and then send themselves to the graveyard, while not destroying any monsters, they could be quite powerful.

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Splashability:

 

This is the term to describe how much you can benificial this card is to any deck. Why do you see alot of "semi-staples" in decks? They're as splashable as a freakin' waterfall, that's why. Once again with the previous example, it goes to Spells and Traps that either Destroy a card and then go to the grave or have a benifical effect. Let's take a really OBVIOUS example:

 

Blue Eyes Ultimate Dragon is not. Why? well first off this card is a -3(!) In the time of Cyber-Stein you could Splash fusions with this by paying 5000 LP to special summon one for free.

 

Mystical Space Typhoon is spalshable, as it benifits almost any deck type. Most players run this in 2 or 1 depending on the space they have avaliable.

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[Toffee.]

TeleDAD, for the most part, IS "perfect".

 

Oh, and Ideal has Slifer for 3.50

[White Void]

Pretty sure the majority of individuals here know everything you posted, most players with common sense do.

[Toffee.]

most players with common sense do.

Newbies dont.

[Legend Zero]

How does knowing a card's price make you a better duelist?

[Great Unclean One: VK]

How does knowing a card's price make you a better duelist?

 

Trading.

 

That's how my local does it.

 

I trade only when I need a card.

 

I always need cards.

[Guest PikaPerson01]

Oh, and Ideal has Slifer for 3.50

Ideal has Judgment Dragon for 5.95

 

Hell, let's be kind. Highest price for 1st ed LODT JD:

$59.95

 

Price of GB1 Gods on eBay:

Oh let's say, $76.00

 

Your JD for their original Gods is a good deal. <_<

[Legend Zero]

Trading.

 

That's how my local does it.

 

I trade only when I need a card.

 

I always need cards.

You want a card for your deck you trade with someone who is willing...then beat him with your deck for your card back.

[Azuh]

This guide sucks

 

We have the internet for a reason

[Toffee.]

Ideal has Judgment Dragon for 5.95

 

Hell, let's be kind. Highest price for 1st ed LODT JD:

$59.95

 

Price of GB1 Gods on eBay:

Oh let's say, $76.00

 

Your JD for their original Gods is a good deal. <_<

Aside from Pika's sarcasm....

Can someone explain to me WHY a 3-pack of God cards sold for 76?

Is Legend Collection like impossible-rare or something? O,o

[DARKPLANT RISING]

The title is genuine.

[Resident Fascist]

Thanks for all the useless crap I mean Not very Constructive Criticism you've all been giving.

[DARKPLANT RISING]

Thanks for all the useless crap I mean Not very Constructive Criticism you've all been giving.

How about this instead?

 

Note: I am no "Pro" at Deck-building. No deck is "perfect" and there will always be some flaw. Raging on here posting "THIS GUIDE SUCKS!!!" makes you look like a moron. Why does it suck? Please tell me so I can improve.

Okay.

THIS POST IS LONG. TL;DR? Don't bother.

Golden Rule 1: How to get cards.

Yeah, because everyone here has hyperactive eyes that can distinguish yellow words smoothly without help.

Well, you have several options. You can obviously buy these:

Obviously, buying random sets isn't going to get you the cards you want. Look up the set lists on the yugioh wiki to see what cards are in the set. Buying boosters is mostly if you love the sense of achievement when you see that glimmering card you want.

There isn't much to say here or object because this is all true. Then again 99% of Yu-Gi-Oh players in the TCG forums here use the internet, which means they most likely do this from the start, so this is hardly needed.

The next way is most obviously, Trading. Going to your locals weekly and seeing if people have the card you want for trade is a good idea. Next you have buying the cards. This is probably the easiest way, but depending on the card(s) it can be quite expensive. If you are in a hurry to prepare your deck, this is the best option. This is also the easiest way to get those out of print cards.

Obvious again. Could you add something unique?

 

Trading Mini-guide: How not to get ripped off.

Finally, something.

When trading, there can be some crafty morons who take pride in ripping others off. Once you have finished reading this, hopefully you won't ever get ripped off (Again). I value if a card is worth trading on 5 scales: Rarity, Price, Effect, Splashability and Usability.

Waitisntthisobvious

 

Rarity: What rarity is the card you are trading for? Unless it was something like this:

X3

For

X2

 

It's not really worth trading for anything that lowers the rarity. Unless the card(s) are genuinely better than what you are trading, it's not worth downgrading a Secret Light End Dragon for 3 Black Whirlwinds.

It ended with obviousness :(

Price:

 

How valuable are the cards you are trading? While there are no official set prices, taking a look at what others have been selling the card for is a good idea. LIMITED EDITION cards, Minus the shonen jump Holo sets, are ussually not worth trading as you can buy a tin or a Retro Pack 1/2 for cheaper than the cards you are trading. As a general rule, do your card's value outwiegh the price of said promo cards? For example:

 

Ghost rare cards are ussually worth more than thier LIMITED EDITION counterparts. Some trades are just downright dodgy, and you should ALWAYS try to read up the effect/ATK/DEF and etc of the cards you are trading for before trading. This trade might look good, but when we take a look at it, you've been ripped off badly:

 

Secret rare Judgement dragon valued at around £150. 1st edition: £200.

I live in Japan so I'm not sure here, but assuming your info is correct, it's still obvious, and I haven't got a single new thing out of here at all.

OriginalSlifer The Sky Dragon Wide price radius.

 

Original Obelisk The Tormentor Very Wide Price radius.

 

OriginalThe Winged Dragon of Ra Very wide Price radius.

 

So you got 3 of the most saught after cards at a 1:3 Ratio. OOPS! You made a ghastly mistake. All 3 of these cards have a Limitation text:This card cannot be used in a duel. So, +£150 for the scammer. Those cards are most likely fake, as so many fakes of them are made.

Of course noobs mistake this. But do we?

 

 

Effect: Does the card you are trading for have any specific effects? Most cards in the TCG now have some effect on the game when played. Rarely are vanillas even wanted by players, because of thier blantant lack of effect. Once again, use common sense. Let's take a look at one of the most famous examples.

 

Hero Barrier Vs Mirror Force

 

Both effects read as follows.

 

 

Hero Barrier:

 

Mirror Force:

 

 

Now, newbies might think that the Hero Barrier card is GOOD for E-Heros. And that mirror force is limited.

 

Comparison in Card Advantage:

 

Hero Barrier:

 

- 1 The card itself.

 

So hero barrier is a -1, -2 if you count the E-hero. It also onlynegates the attack, if you can't destroy the monster by your next end phase it'll be there ready to attack you again. So a -1 for absolutely nothing.

 

Mirror Force:

 

-1 The card itself.

+1 For each monster on the opponent's side in Attack.

 

Mirror force has the capability of becoming a +4 if the opponent has 5 monsters in attack. This card destroys the monsters, making them unable for use unless brought back somehow, I know, you'd must be a idiot to not know this but I'd thought I'd add it. In most cases it'll be a +0 or a +1. What does having the advantage in the number of cards help you? Well, I'll go over that in the dueling section, but the more cards you have the more varied your turns can be and the opponent cannot just guess what you are going to do. Don't try to telegraph what you are doing next turn. Mirror force can be used in all decks as well. Hero Barrier is ONLY for E-hero decks. And please, Just run D.Prison? 3 D.Prisons and a Mirror Force will do fine.

You're an idiot. No deck (unless it isn't some form of Gadgets) wouldn't run 3 D. Prisons. Especially in a Hero deck.

 

Not all -1 cards are bad, just that ones that do hardly anything is not worth risking Card Advantage over. Unless you have a card that works in the graveyard. Don't waste your cards to activate weak effects. If the effect gains you a +1 or +0, it's worth it if your hand is dead or you want new cards from your deck. -1's are mostly traps that activate a effect and then send themselves to the graveyard, while not destroying any monsters, they could be quite powerful.

Duh.

Splashability:

 

This is the term to describe how much you can benificial this card is to any deck. Why do you see alot of "semi-staples" in decks? They're as splashable as a freakin' waterfall, that's why. Once again with the previous example, it goes to Spells and Traps that either Destroy a card and then go to the grave or have a benifical effect. Let's take a really OBVIOUS example:

 

Blue Eyes Ultimate Dragon is not. Why? well first off this card is a -3(!) In the time of Cyber-Stein you could Splash fusions with this by paying 5000 LP to special summon one for free.

 

Mystical Space Typhoon is spalshable, as it benifits almost any deck type. Most players run this in 2 or 1 depending on the space they have avaliable.

More obvious.

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This guide is quite full of things all of us know. Not to mention it wasn't worth reviewing foe-fic style because you only made two types of mistakes. None of us can learn anything from here. And this should be in tuts, I believe.

 

...At least newbs can enjoy it there.

[Azuh]

Who summons BEUD with Polymerization? Plus Cyber Stein is banned

[Toffee.]

Who summons BEUD with Polymerization? Plus Cyber Stein is banned

Ultimiate Dragon, if your playing correctly, is a +0(-1?)

[darthmunchy]

"THIS GUIDE SUCKS!!!"

[Guest PikaPerson01]

Aside from Pika's sarcasm....

Can someone explain to me WHY a 3-pack of God cards sold for 76?

Is Legend Collection like impossible-rare or something? O,o

It's not the LC isn't easy to find, but rather that GC1 versions of the gods are hard to find. In the same way that PTDN Dark Armed Dragons are still worth more then tin versions of DAD.

 

Thanks for all the useless crap I mean Not very Constructive Criticism you've all been giving.

Okay, all your information is either blatantly wrong (You oversimplify Card Advantage, otherwise Book of Moon and Waboku are awful. Your pricing for JD and 3 gods is wrong. Your implication that splashability matters at all in the Extra Deck is wrong[*].) or extremely obvious (Just about everything else)

 

[*]Back when there were less Synchros, I knew plenty of duelists who mained Gyzarus despite not even remotely running a Gladiator Beast deck. The idea was, that when dueling a Gladiator Beast deck, they had copies of Goyo, Mind Control, and Brain Control, and could theoretically summon Gyzarus should they be able to steal opponent's monsters. Nowadays, see Chimeratech Fortress Dragon.

 

tl;dr - This guide sucks

[byak]

[snip]

[The Crimson King]

To topic creator: Would you trade your useless super rare Black Whirlwind for my ultra awesome ultra rare Helpoemer?

[Guest PikaPerson01]

Okay, we get it. This guide is terrible, the topic creator shouldn't be making a guide considering his apparent lack of knowledge in the subject, etc etc.

 

I can only see this thread devolving into more "LOLOLO! UR DUMB" types of posts, interlaced with spam and other useless trash, so I'll just be closing this now.